Spring planting of strawberries requires maximum attention from the gardener. It is important to protect young plants from return frosts and other adverse effects. We will learn how to choose the time and place of planting, and what are the options for spring planting.
Spring planting dates
One of the conditions for a successful strawberry planting is to choose the right moment. Timing depends on the region, climate and specific weather conditions. Approximate calendar dates for seedling planting:
- in the southern regions with a mild climate - March 5-15;
- in regions with a temperate climate - from April 10 to the beginning of May;
- in the northern regions - May 1-15.
These dates are indicative, in addition to them it is important to take into account the weather. Strawberry seedlings are planted under such conditions:
- stable temperature at the level of + 10 ... + 15 ° С;
- the topsoil warmed up to + 8 ... + 9 ° С;
- cloudless weather should set in on the day of landing.
In most regions, after the specified time, the threat of spring frost remains. To protect young strawberries from freezing, use a film or agrofiber. They also cover a new plantation with the appearance of prolonged spring rains.
Pros and cons of spring planting
Pros of spring planting:
- Seedlings planted in the spring, falling into a warm, favorable environment, has the opportunity to strengthen and form a powerful root system.
- The bushes, gaining strength over the spring-summer season, will enter the winter healthy, and will confidently withstand low temperatures.
- Bushes that have not taken root in the spring can easily be exchanged for new ones.
- Strawberries planted in spring are watered less - the soil after snowmelt contains a lot of moisture.
Spring planting has only one drawback - in the first summer, plants give few berries, a good harvest will be only next year.
Spring planting is especially popular in regions with harsh winters. For Siberia and the Urals, this is the only way to get strong strawberry bushes with a powerful root system. Planted in the spring, strawberry bushes manage to root and grow in a quality manner.
For the southern regions, spring planting is not profitable - it is difficult for young seedlings to grow and develop under the scorching sun. The same applies to the Moscow region, but unfavorable ecology still joins here.
Strawberry Seedling Selection
When choosing strawberry seedlings, adhere to these rules:
- deal only with trusted sellers - nurseries and specialty stores;
- purchase varieties zoned in your area.
Seedlings for planting are grown independently or purchased with a closed or open root system.
Open root system
Seedling with an open root system (ACS) is grown on beds. Its roots are open, so they are often damaged during transportation and transplantation. The survival rate of such planting material is lower than that of analogues sold in containers.
Watch a video about spring planting strawberries with an open root system:
Signs of quality seedlings:
- the bush has 3-5 leaves;
- leaves - strong, elastic, shiny, slightly pubescent;
- leaf color - bright green, without defects;
- developed root system of the fibrous type - the roots are light, 8-10 cm long, strong, without any signs of rot;
- thick horns - from 7 mm, a light green hue;
- peduncles growth points - developed, without damage.
With a closed root system
Sealed Root Seedlings (ZKS) are sold in containers or cassettes. This option guarantees a high percentage of survival. Seedlings with ZKS are more suitable for autumn planting.
When buying seedlings of ZKS, pay attention to such moments:
- Inspect the cups - many sellers, wanting to cash in, sell seedlings with ACS as a cassette, seedling it a day or two before selling it in a plastic container. The authenticity of the ZKS is confirmed by the ends of the roots sprouted through the drainage holes.
- Inspect the seedlings. It should not have signs of illness or damage.
To get the seedlings yourself, at the mother bushes, tear off the extra peduncles with rosettes - leave only the 2 strongest. When the mustache takes root, separate the young plants and plant them in containers.
Planting material can also be obtained by the Dutch method - it is called frigo. This technique is used in the cultivation of large-fruited strawberries. The bushes are dug up in the fall, during the initial phase of dormancy. All leaves are torn off. Bushes deprived of leaves are stored until spring at a temperature of 0 to minus 3 ° C.
Preparing planting material
If seedlings are bought in containers, that is, another two weeks to plant them. But seedlings with ACS is better to plant as soon as possible. If you have to postpone planting in the ground - due to weather or other circumstances, it is necessary to "conserve" seedlings.
Strawberry seedlings are placed in dark plastic bags, previously sprayed with water. Store in the basement for 5-7 days. Plants, lying in the dark, will let out new roots - they will help the bushes to take root quickly.
The procedure for preparing seedlings for planting:
- On each plant, leave no more than 4 leaves. Tear off the rest - then the seedlings will take root better.
- Cut the roots with a sharp secateurs - their length should not exceed 10 cm.
- Dip the roots in a solution with a growth stimulant. If seedlings with ZKS - just pour it with a solution.
Before planting, the roots of seedlings can also be dipped in:
- clay talker;
- a talker of humus, soil and a growth stimulant;
- a mixture of mullein and clay;
- garlic infusion;
- 1% solution of potassium permanganate or iodine.
One hour before planting, seedlings are watered by adding mullein and herbal infusions.
Preparing for landing
Features of site selection:
- Strawberry plantations are located in well-lit areas. The desired direction of the beds is from north to south or south-west. The site is flat, or with a slope of 2-3 degrees. Lowlands - not suitable. Here plants are doomed to disease and vegetation from cold air.
- The best soil for strawberries is chernozem and sandy soil. Clay, sod and light gray soils are less favorable. If the soil is heavy, sand is added during digging to make the soil loose. The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.5-6.5.
- Groundwater occurrence - at least 0.6-1 m.
- It is recommended to plant strawberries after salad, legumes, cereals, radishes, beets, carrots, parsley. Unfavorable predecessors - cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini, sunflower, tomatoes, Jerusalem artichoke.
Strawberries are not grown in one place for more than 3-4 years. Re-landing on the site - after 4-5 years.
How to prepare a place for landing:
- In the autumn, dig the soil 30 cm deep. Be sure to choose weed roots from the soil.
- Fertilize - organic and mineral. The best option is manure or compost. The most valuable manure is horse. Fertilizers are laid out on the site before digging - 2 buckets per 1 sq. Km. m. A glass of ash is added to each bucket.
- A month before planting, pour the earth with hot lime (+ 70 ° C), making a solution from a bucket of water and 500 g of lime. Add copper sulfate - 50 g. Per 1 square. m - 1 liter of solution.
- In the depleted soils, add - before planting, humus and ash.
There is another option for soil preparation:
- In autumn, plant green manure on the plot prepared for strawberries. Frosts will destroy the sprouted plants - usually they sow beans or lupins, and they turn into biomass, which, by decaying, enriches the soil.
- In the spring, dig the ground and fertilize - humus or compost with the addition of ash (a glass on a bucket).
Bad “neighborhood” of cultures
When choosing a place for a strawberry plantation, consider the compatibility of crops:
- Do not plant strawberries near crops that need similar nutrition - plants will compete for nutrients.
- Neighboring crops should have similar watering regimes.
- Do not plant crops nearby that will obscure this sun-loving plant.
- You can not place nearby crops affected by the same diseases and pests.
If you follow the above rules, unwanted neighbors for strawberries:
- all nightshade and clove crops;
- cabbage;
- raspberry;
- onion and garlic.
Favorable neighbors:
- parsley;
- salad;
- carrot;
- radish;
- spinach.
A good neighborhood of strawberries will also be - beets, radishes, peas, beans, lentils.
Depth and landing distance
When planting bushes in prepared holes, it is important to correctly position the growth point - the "heart". It should be above ground level, it is impossible to deepen the growth point - the plant can rot. If the growth point is above the set, the roots will become bare and begin to dry out.
The distance between the strawberry bushes depends on the variety and on the planting method. The minimum distance is 7 cm, the maximum is 60 cm. The smallest spaces are for carpet planting, the longest are for line layout.
Strawberry planting methods and detailed instructions for them
Depending on the variety and size of the plot, the optimal strawberry planting scheme is chosen.
Into the film tunnels
To get an early harvest, seedlings are planted in film shelters:
- Install “tunnels” from the film immediately after the snow melts.
- Between adjacent frames - metal or plastic, leave a gap of 1 m.
- Lay the plot according to the 2-line pattern. Between the lines - 25-30 cm, between adjacent bushes in the line - 30-40 cm.
- Plants are staggered.
Tunnels are planted in April. It is recommended to remove peduncles - so that the plant does not lose strength. Plants are watered, loosened - they perform all standard agrotechnical practices. By autumn, powerful, highly productive bushes will grow under the film.
Advantages of growing in a tunnel:
- plants are protected from excessive ultraviolet radiation;
- protection against cold winds;
- a favorable microclimate is preserved under the film;
- ripening period is reduced;
- easier to control soil composition.
Disadvantages: it is necessary to constantly ventilate the tunnels, monitor humidity and temperature.
Under agrofibre (black covering material)
Planting strawberries under black cover material dramatically solves the weed problem. Procedure:
- Build beds and drip irrigation. Hoses are laid under the film. The width of the beds is at least 80 cm.
- Lay the covering sheet on the beds and secure on both sides, sprinkled with earth and crushed with something heavy.
- Make cross-shaped holes in pre-designated locations — approximately 10 cm in length. The distance between adjacent slots is 30 cm.
The cover material may be black or two-tone. Black and white material is laid with the white side up - this creates a more favorable temperature regime.
Advantages of the covering method:
- weeds do not grow through agrofibre or film;
- the mustache does not take root; it is easy to remove;
- the berries do not touch the ground, therefore they are always clean;
- plant roots develop well;
- the bushes have little contact with the soil, practically do not get sick, and there is no need to treat them with pesticides;
- in winter, plant roots feel more comfortable under cover.
Video about planting strawberries under black cover material see below:
In the greenhouse
In a greenhouse, strawberries are grown in one of the following ways:
- in the classical way - in the ground;
- in pots;
- in plastic bags;
- on vertical beds.
In the greenhouse, you can arrange horizontal and vertical beds, and the latter option allows more efficient and economical use of the area. On one hundred square meters, with the vertical cultivation of strawberries, as many bushes are placed as on 30-40 hundred parts when planting strawberries in the usual way.
Plastic bags
This Dutch technology allows you to get up to 5 crops per year. Procedure:
- Prepare white plastic bags 0.25-0.35 mm thick.
- Fill the bags with a nutritious substrate and moisturize moderately.
- Bags can be placed in the greenhouse, in the open ground, horizontally or vertically.
- Make 9 cm wide holes in the bags.
- Plant seedlings in the holes. Between adjacent bushes should be at least 20 cm.
This method of growing is productive, strawberries are less sick, there are no weeds at all.
Vertical bed
This landing option is good with a shortage of space. The procedure for constructing a vertical bed from a plastic pipe is as follows:
- Take a large diameter plastic pipe and a smaller one.
- Insert a tube with pre-drilled irrigation channels into the center of the large pipe.
- Make holes in the pipe at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Of these, strawberries will grow.
- Provide a drainage layer below so that water flowing from above does not accumulate in the lower part of the structure.
The method allows to save space, dispenses with weeding and loosening. Designs have an attractive appearance. Vertical beds are built from any material at hand, this is a very profitable way of planting, deserving the attention of our gardeners. You can also make vertical beds from old car tires, stacked one on one in the form of a pillar or from a plastic barrel.
Outdoor planting seedlings
It is recommended to plant strawberry seedlings in open ground in the evening or in cloudy weather. If the seedlings are in cups, then the plants simply gently transfer from them into pre-prepared wells. Seedlings with ACS can have problems with survival, so the technique of planting it is slightly different from planting seedlings with ACS.
When planting seedlings with open roots, you have to perform several additional manipulations:
- trim the root system if necessary;
- gently immersing the bush in the hole, straighten the roots;
- first pour water into the hole, and then immediately sprinkle the roots with soil, and tamp.
With a standard landing pattern, the following parameters are maintained:
- the depth of the hole is 12-15 cm;
- the distance between adjacent holes is 30-35 cm;
- the distance between the rows is 40-45 cm.
Depending on the chosen landing method, the above parameters may vary. There are such landing patterns:
- Single line. The distance between the bushes is 15 cm, between the rows - 60 cm.
- Two-line. Between the bushes - 20 cm, between the rows - 30 cm. This technique is often used for summer, and not for spring planting.
- Carpet. Only 7 cm is left between the bushes, 30 cm between the rows. A favorable microclimate is created on the plantation, and weeds simply have nowhere to grow with such planting. The disadvantage is that small berries grow.
- Bush. The bushes have a lot of room for growth, the berries are large. If you look from above, the bushes form rectangles 50x70 cm in size.
- Nesting. One bush is planted in the center, and 6 others are planted around it, the distance between adjacent bushes is 10 cm, between the nests - 30 cm.
Seed planting
To seedlings grown from seeds, was transplanted in the spring, sowing begins no later than February-March. Seeds sown in May-June give seedlings, which are used for growing berries in winter - in greenhouses.
Procedure:
- So that the seeds sprout faster, they are soaked in melt water for 2-3 days. Strawberry seeds are very small, so they are laid out first on some fleecy surface. Cotton pads or filter paper are suitable, for example. Then the seeds are immersed in water poured into a container of small depth.
- Water is drained, and the container is closed with glass / film. They put in a warm, lit place. Until sprouts appear, gradually add water - so that the seeds do not dry out, and that mold does not develop.
- When sprouts appear, the seeds are planted in the soil with a match or a toothpick.
Watch the video about growing strawberries (garden strawberries) from seeds:
Care for planted strawberries
After spring planting, strawberries need increased attention:
- Sun protection. If planting was done in open ground, the bushes should be shaded. For example, cover with a spanbond.
- Watering. Unlike the autumn planting, strawberries planted in the spring are watered less often - since there is enough moisture in the soil after the snow melts. Then strawberries are watered as the soil dries. Humidification should be moderate, an excess of moisture in the soil will provoke the development of powdery mildew and gray rot.
- Mulching. Experienced gardeners advise sheltering fresh mulch plantings. Shelter - 2 weeks. As a mulch, hay, straw, spruce branches, sawdust, compost will do.
- Weeding and cultivation. These measures are necessary if mulching or covering material is not used.
- Top dressing. Strawberries are fed at least three times per season. This is especially important in poor or poorly fertilized soils. Read about spring dressing here.
You can feed strawberries with such solutions:- Ammonium sulfate (1 tbsp. L.) Mixed with rotted manure (2-3 cups) and pour a bucket of water. For one hole - 1 liter of solution.
- A solution of nitroammophoski (1 tbsp. L. Per 10 liters of water).
- Infusion of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20).
- Prevention and control of pests / diseases. Plants are timely sprayed with fungicides, herbal infusions, if necessary with insecticides.
- Pruning mustache. They are removed so that the plant does not lose strength on the growth of shoots. Usually they leave the first mustache, extending from the bush - for planting material.
Possible landing errors
Beginners often make mistakes when planting strawberries, these are the most typical:
- Too tight fit. There are insufficient spaces between the bushes. On a thickened plantation, poor ventilation, diseases appear, especially often - gray rot. Due to the lack of light and nutrition, the berries are smaller.
- Excess fertilizer. Due to excess nitrogen, leaves grow intensively, and berries are formed with a lag. Due to excess manure, the roots of plants can burn.
- Deepening the growth point. Plants with a high and low location of the growth point will wither away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Amateur gardeners and gardeners often have questions related to planting strawberries. The table contains the most frequently asked questions and answers to them.
Table
Question | Answer |
What should be the composition of the soil? | If the soil is unfavorable - light gray and gray turf, add sand, and dig the soil. In acidic soils, strawberries do not grow. |
How close can bushes be placed in relation to each other? | You can not plant plants too close to each other - they will hurt, and the berries will grow small. The bushes are planted closest with the carpet method, the interval is 7 cm. |
What will happen if you add more fertilizer than necessary? | The root system may burn, or the green part of the plant will begin to grow vigorously - leaves, shoots. |
What is the best way to plant seedlings - on a tubercle or in a pit? | Any option is suitable. But if you plant in a hole, it is important that the site is not swampy. |
How to dive seedlings grown from seeds? | Wait for the appearance of 3-4 real leaves, and then transplant the seedlings - in the ground or in the greenhouse. |
Thanks to spring planting, it is possible to prevent freezing of young seedlings, and in the summer to get the first crop of berries. Each gardener can choose the best method for planting strawberries - from open ground to greenhouse conditions.
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